From: mbfeld@unix.amherst.edu (A waste of bandwidth) Subject: The Good Sound for Cheap FAQ, v1.1 Date: 24 Feb 1996 05:51:21 GMT The opinions contained therein are my own. If you disagree with them, GO TO HELL! I'M RIGHT AND YOU'RE WRONG! NYAAH NYAAH NYAAH NYAAH NYAAH NYAAH [End summary of typical rec.audio.opinion posting style] --Marlon ********* THE GOOD SOUND FOR CHEAP FAQ ********* Version 1.1 By Marlon Feld (mbfeld@amherst.edu) ************************************************ HTML credit goes to Joshua Burgin (joshua@netaxs.com). Version 1.0 was HTML'd by Jeff Jensen (jaj@iastate.edu). The current WWW site of this page is http://www.netaxs.com/~joshua/goodsound.html Thanks again to Joshua Burgin for providing this site. CONTENTS 0 What's new in Version 1.1 1 What is this FAQ about? 2 How can you call a $2000 system cheap? 3 Notable Omissions 3.1 Why no sub/sat systems? 3.2 Why no Bose speakers? 3.3 Why no used equipment? 3.4 Why no home theater? 3.5 Why no prepackaged minisystems? 4 What about buying outside the United States? 5 A Quick Glossary of Components 6 Putting Together a system 6.1 How do I put together a system for $500-750? 6.2 How do I put together a system for $750-1000? 6.3 How do I put together a system for $1000-1500? 6.4 How do I put together a system for $1500-2000? 6.5 Some Notes on Loudspeaker Fixation 7 The System Buying Experience 8 The Equipment 8.1 Digital Sources 8.1.1 CD Players 8.1.2 CD Changers 8.1.3 Transports 8.1.4 Digital-to-Analog Converters 8.2 Receivers 8.3 Integrated Amplifiers 8.4 Power Amplifiers 8.5 Preamplifiers 8.6 Tuners 8.7 Loudspeakers 9 System Setup and Your System's Future ****************************** 0 What's new in Version 1.1 ****************************** Recommendations for further Internet reading added to Section 1 Definitions of interconnects and speaker cable added to glossary (Section 5) Some of the sample systems in Section 6 have been updated to reflect the changes in the equipment listings. There has also been a substantive change to Section 6.3: more samples have been added to illustrate the various ways of splitting up the equipment budget. Cautions about the sound quality of variable outputs (Section 6.1) A discussion of "Loudspeaker Fixation" (Section 6.5) A section on the buying experience (Section 7; the equipment listing section is now Section 8) A brand new section on system setup and your system's future (Section 9) Sections 3.1-3.4 have been replaced by this. Some new pieces of equipment: Adcom GFA5200 power amp Adcom GFA5300 power amp Arcam Alpha 5+ integrated amp Dana Model 1 loudspeakers Definitve Technology BP6 loudspeakers harmon/kardon hk620 integrated amp Jolida SJ502A integrated tube amp KEF Coda 7 loudspeakers Marantz CD63 II CD player Mission 731 loudspeakers NAD 310 integrated amp NAD 312 integrated amp NAD 314 integrated amp NAD 510 CD player NHT 2.5 loudspeakers Paradigm Mini-Mk3 loudspeakers Parasound C/DP-1500 CD changer Rotel RA-930AX II integrated amp Rotel RB-930AX power amp Rotel RB-970BX II integrated amp Sonic Frontiers Assemblage D/A converter Removal of some equipment: Adcom GFA535II power amp (replaced by GFA5200 and GFA5300) Arcam Alpha 5 integrated amp (replaced by Arcam Alpha 5+) Genesis Genre III loudspeakers (big sales are over) KEF Q30 loudspeakers (I changed my mind :-) ) Marantz CD63 (replaced by CD63 II) NAD 302 integrated amp (replaced by 312) NAD 304 integrated amp (replaced by 314) NAD 502 CD player (replaced by 510 CD) Paradigm Phantom loudspeakers (superseded by Paradigm Mini-MkIII) Rotel RB-970BX integrated amp (replaced by RB-970BX II) As you can see, several replacements for popular models have just come out. Their descriptions will be based largely on the models they replaced, unless there is reason to believe that the new versions will be much different. Changes to the descriptions of the following equipment: Audio Alchemy DDE1.1 D/A converter (exhortation to buy good power supply, comment on new discounts) Audio Alchemy DLC preamp (comment on new discounts) B&K equipment (more information about sound quality) Philips 921/926 CD player/changer (reliability questions, possible impending replacement by newer models) Rotel RA-985BX integrated amp (no phono stage!) Snell E/IV loudspeakers (concerns about mail ordering) Other minor format changes have been made, but they do not affect the content of the descriptions. There are also some slight price changes. ****************************************************** 1 What is this FAQ about? (and Recommended Reading) ****************************************************** The Good Sound for Cheap FAQ is an introduction to high fidelity stereo systems priced from $500 to $2000 (US dollars). It is aimed at the new stereo buyer. Audiophiles with experience in the stereophonic marketplace will find few surprises here. Rather, it is the music listener whose familiarity extends not much farther than Sony and Bose who has much to discover. This guide is meant as a starting point for listening. It is imperative that the buyer hear as many stereo systems and combinations of components as possible. The time spent visiting stereo stores and friends' installations will be time well spent. (Buying mail order components with options to return is also a viable strategy.) DO NOT assume that all worthwhile components are mentioned here, or even that you will find all the components mentioned here musically satisfying. A fuller introduction to the process of buying and installing a stereo system can be found in the Rec.Audio FAQ. (This is not that document.) Here are some other sources of information for the first-time buyer: The Bose FAQ, by Culbert Laney (laney@coltrane.colorado.edu) This document grew out of a long, fiery debate about Bose on the rec.audio.* newsgroups. However, its value extends beyond this beginning: it has excellent advice about shopping for speakers, and provides insight into the mind of an audiophile who trusts his own listening over marketing hype. The Bose FAQ can be found on the WWW at http://cernan.ecn.purdue.edu/~busenitz/bs.html The Internet Recommended Components List, maintained by Noam Ben-Ami (http://?) This list has both inexpensive and costly components listed, with fuller descriptions than the ones in this FAQ. Components are still being added at the time of this writing. Robert's Hifi Pages (http://www.unik.no/~robert/hifi) A large collection of links to WWW sites of interest to audiophiles. The Mail Order FAQ, by William Nau (nau@ssesco.com) Information on the major mail order houses in the U.S., along with customer satisfaction surveys for each one. ******************************************* 2 How can you call a $2000 system cheap? ******************************************* Two thousand dollars is a lot of money to most of us. Yet when you consider the years ahead of using your stereo system every day, $2000 does not seem like so much. For the price of about 150 CD's, a $2000 system can make every CD you own sound many times better. If you don't have $1500 or $2000 to spend on a system, then don't spend it. A satisfying stereo can be had for as little as $500. But keep in mind that the better a system is, the more you will listen. $2000 can buy a system to which you will listen an awful lot. ********************** 3 Notable Omissions ********************** 3.1 Why no sub/sat systems? A sub/sat system usually consists of three pieces: two satellites, small speakers that reproduce moderate to high frequencies, and a subwoofer, which reproduces the bass. Assembling a successful sub/sat system can be a challenge, especially if the satellites and subwoofer are made by different companies. Furthermore, it is the opinion of this author that most full-range speakers provide a more satisfying listening experience than most sub/sat systems for listening to music. (Home theater is another story, but see 3.4 below.) A few of the smaller loudspeakers in Section 8.7 can function as satellites when a subwoofer is added; this will be noted in their descriptions. 3.2 Why no Bose speakers? Although Bose is a name much bandied about in the audio marketplace, the consensus among audiophiles is that Bose speakers are inferior to similarly priced speakers made by other companies. They are not recommended in this FAQ. However, the reader should listen to Bose speakers and draw his or her own conclusions. 3.3 Why no used equipment? Buying used audio equipment is fraught with peril. Hidden damage, lack of knowledge about discontinued models, and shipping problems make it a pursuit more appropriate for experienced audiophiles. The first-time buyer should be willing to consider deals on used equipment, but should focus primarily on shopping for new items with warranties. 3.4 Why no home theater? Assembling a home theater system presents a set of requirements and problems beyond those that pertain to music-only systems. Hopefully, a "Good Home Theater for Cheap FAQ" will be written at some point. 3.5 Why no prepackaged minisystems? The components in minisystems tend to be of low quality. Furthermore, minisystems have the problem that components cannot be upgraded, or separately repaired if broken. A minisystem may be the best idea for a buyer with $300 to spend, but not for one with $500 or more. ************************************************* 4 What about buying outside the United States? ************************************************* This FAQ lists equipment available in the United States, and gives list prices in US$. Advice on buying in other countries will be better given by modified versions of this FAQ which will hopefully appear. Of course, the equipment described here is recommended to you wherever you are. :-) *********************************** 5 A Quick Glossary of Components *********************************** This is going to go fast, so hold on... :-) A stereo system has three main parts: the SOURCE(s), the AMPLIFICATION, and the LOUDSPEAKERS. A signal proceeds from the source to the amplification and then out the louspeakers as sound. The most often used source in a high-quality stereo system is the CD. The TRANSPORT spins the disc and gets the digital data off of it. This data is then sent to the DIGITAL-TO-ANALOG CONVERTER (aka D/A CONVERTER or DAC), which turns the digital data into a signal ready for amplification. A CD PLAYER contains both a transport and a DAC. Another source is the TUNER, which receives radio signals. The tuner does not amplify the signal. The signal from the source is then usually sent to a PREAMPLIFIER. The preamp, as it's called, has a volume control, and often tone controls as well. It also boosts the signal a little if the volume setting requires it. The preamp can select between multiple sources plugged into it; it can be considered the control center of the stereo system. The signal then goes from the preamp to the POWER AMPLIFIER, which magnifies it enough to power the loudspeakers. The power amp usually has none of the controls that appear on the preamp. Occasionally, the signal from a CD player is sent diretly to the power amp, without the benefit of a preamp. This possibiltiy is discussed further in Section 6.1. The wires that send a signal from one piece of electronics to another are called INTERCONNECTS. The tuner, preamp, and power amp are often combined in various ways. A RECEIVER contains all three. An INTEGRATED AMPLIFIER contains the preamp and the power amp. A TUNER/PREAMP... well, the name says it all. :-) Most systems under $2000 will include one of these combination components. The boosted signal from the power amp is then sent to the LOUDSPEAKERS, via SPEAKER CABLES. Voila... music! ****************************** 6 Putting Together a System ****************************** Remember, the systems described do not include tape decks. Budget $100-300 extra for a deck if you need one. 6.1 How do I put together a system for $500-750? If you are at the lower end of the $500-750 range, your best bet is to buy the Philips single-disc player, one of the less expensive receivers, and a pair of small speakers. An example: CD PLAYER: Philips CD921 $159 RECEIVER: Onkyo TX-910 240 SPEAKERS: PSB Alpha 199 ---- System price: $598 On this and some other systems, system street price will be a little less than list price. For example, the above system could probably be had for $550. (The examples in this FAQ are just that-- examples. This combination of components is *not* recommended above other combinations of components that are recommended in Seciton 6. You need to listen for yourself to find a combination you like.) In the upper half of the $500-750 range, you will have a little more leeway. One option is to go with somewhat larger speakers. CD PLAYER: Philips CD921 $159 RECEIVER: Onkyo TX-910 240 SPEAKERS: Paradigm Mini-MkIII 330 ---- System price: $729 Other possible places to put money are a better receiver and the Philips CD changer. CD CHANGER: Philips CDC926 $229 RECEIVER: Yamaha RX-485 299 SPEAKERS: PSB Alpha 199 ---- System price: $727 If you can do without a tuner, an integrated amplifier will provide better sound than a receiver. In the $500-750 system price range, integrated amp options are limited. CD PLAYER: Philips CD921 $159 INTEGRATED AMP: NAD 310 199 SPEAKERS: Mission 731 249 ---- System price: $607 If you listen to CD's and nothing else, it is possible to assemble a system in which the CD player connects directly to a power amplifier. Of course, a volume control will be needed somewhere in the system: either on the CD player (the Philips players have volume controls) or on the power amp (the only power amp in this FAQ with volume controls is the Audiosource Amp One). If you plan to use the variable outputs on a CD player (i.e. its volume controls, if it has any), listen closely before buying; many variable outputs detract from sound quality. CD PLAYER: Philips CD921 $159 POWER AMP: Audiosource Amp One 299 SPEAKERS: Paradigm Titan 210 ---- System Price: $668 6.2 How do I put together a system for $750-1000? In this price range, an integrated amplifier will probably be the source of amplification. (A direct CD-to-power-amp connection is still possible; see Section 6.1.) Speakers will probably cost $300-400. CD PLAYER: Philips CD921 $159 INTEGRATED AMP: Arcam Alpha 5+ 399 SPEAKERS: PSB 400 399 ---- System price: $957 There is also the possibility of improving the digital source. CD PLAYER: Rotel RCD-940BX $379 INTEGRATED AMP: Rotel RA-935BX 349 SPEAKERS: Mission 731 249 ---- System price: $977 Another way to improve the digital source is to add an external Digital-to- Analog Converter (DAC) to a Philips CD player. The DAC turns the binary data (i.e. 1's and 0's) from the disc into an amplifiable voltage. The Philips player acts as a transport, which only gets the 1's and 0's off the disc. One advantage to a separate DAC is that it can be replaced with a better DAC later, without losing the investment in the transport. In fact, any system with a CD player that has a digital out can have a DAC added to it later. TRANSPORT: Philips CD921 $159 Digital cable 40 DAC: Audio Alchemy Dac*Man 159 INTEGRATED AMP: NAD 312 279 SPEAKERS: Paradigm Titan 210 ---- System Price: $847 If you need a tuner, a receiver is still your best option in this price range. CD CHANGER: Philips CDC926 $229 RECEIVER: NAD 701 349 SPEAKERS: PSB 300 299 ---- System Price: $877 6.3 How do I put together a system for $1000-1500? Options expand greatly once you pass the $1000 mark. First off, you will definitely want to get a high quality digital source. A system with an integrated amp is still an option. TRANSPORT: Philips CD921 $159 Digital cable 40 DAC: Audio Alchemy Dac*Man 159 INTEGRATED AMP: Rotel RA-935BX 349 SPEAKERS: Paradigm Mini-MkIII 330 ---- System Price $1037 CD PLAYER: Marantz CD63 $399 INTEGRATED AMP: Rega Brio 399 SPEAKERS: NHT 1.3A 480 ---- System Price: $1278 If you need a tuner, buy a separate tuner. A receiver is not good enough for a system costing over $1000. CD PLAYER: NAD 510 $299 INTEGRATED AMP: NAD 314 399 TUNER: NAD 402 249 SPEAKERS: Signet SL260B/U 450 ---- System Price: $1400 As you approach the upper limit of the $1000-1500 range, the combination of a power amp and a preamp becomes a possibility. Of necessity, the digital source and the speakers will have to be reasonably economical. TRANSPORT: Philips CD921 $159 Digital cable 40 DAC: Audio Alchemy Dac*Man 159 PREAMP: Rotel RC-970BX 279 POWER AMP: Rotel RB-970BX 379 SPEAKERS: PSB 400 399 ---- System Price: $1415 If a tuner is needed, a preamp with a built-in tuner can be purchased. In a system near $1500 with an integrated amp and no tuner, there is plenty of financial leeway. Extra money can be put into the digital source, the integrated amp, or the speakers. You should listen to systems with different financial balances. TRANSPORT: Philips CDC926 229 Digital cable 40 DAC: Audio Alchemy DDE1.1 459 INTEGRATED AMP: Arcam Alpha 5+ 399 SPEAKERS: Dana Model 1 199 ---- $1326 CD PLAYER: Rotel RCD-940BX $379 INTEGRATED AMP: Arcam Delta 290 899 SPEAKERS: Dana Model 1 199 ---- $1477 CD PLAYER: Rotel RCD-940BX $379 INTEGRATED AMP: Arcam Alpha 5+ 399 SPEAKERS: Vandersteen 1B 695 ---- $1473 Putting the most money into speakers is sometimes a good idea, but don't do it in order to get the best bass! Bigger speakers do go deeper, but extra money spent on the amplification will make whatever bass the speakers can produce sound more solid. 6.4 How do I put together a system for $1500-2000? As the amount of money increases, so does the number of choices. However, you should count on a good digital source, a better integrated amp or a separate power amp and preamp, and speakers that cost at least $500. (Of course, if you fall in love with a pair of speakers under $500, go ahead and get them.) CD PLAYER: Parasound C/DP-1000 $495 PREAMP: Parasound P/HP-850 375 POWER AMP: Parasound HCA-600 365 SPEAKERS: Paradigm 5seMKIII 530 ---- $1765 A tuner can be purchased either as a separate component or as part of a preamplifier. TRANSPORT: Philips CD921 $159 Digital cable 40 DAC: Audio Alchemy DITB 259 INTEGRATED AMP: Rotel RA-980BX 699 TUNER: NAD 402 249 SPEAKERS: B&W DM610i 500 ---- $1906 Another approach to a $1500-2000 system is to sink the most money into speakers. CD PLAYER: Marantz CD63 $399 PREAMP: AudioSource Pre One 249 POWER AMP: AudioSource Amp One 299 SPEAKERS: Magnepan MG.6/QR 999 ---- $1946 The reader can work out other ways of distributing the money, and audition systems that use those ways. The important thing is for each component to be of excellent quality. When you have over $1500 to spend, you can afford such quality. 6.5 "Loudspeaker Fixation" When you walk into a room with a stereo system, you usually notice the loudspeakers first. They are often larger than the other components, and positioned more prominently. Different models of loudspeakers generally look more distinctive than different models of amps or CD players. And, after all, the music comes out of the loudspeakers! Many people unconsciously conclude from the loudspeakers' prominence that they are the main element in the stereo system. They are not; a good stereo system is the result of many good components that sound good together (yes, this sentence reminds me of the Reese's Peanut Butter Cups slogan too :-) ), not of any "main" component surrounded by auxiliaries. It may be that you prefer the sound of a system with the most money sunk into the speakers. There is nothing wrong with this. Just be sure that you are evaluating the *total* system, however it may be divided up monetarily. Having a "loudspeaker fixation" will get you an unsatisfying system. ********************************* 7 The System Buying Experience ********************************* In an ideal world, one stereo store down the street from our house would have all the components you consider buying at the best prices available. You would be able to listen to all combinations of all equipment in an exact facsimile of your home, and then pick the combination you like most. Unfortunately, assembling a system is never that easy. Different stores have different components you want; there are some components you want that you can't find at all! You may have to work fairly hard to hear the system you want, especially considering our rule that good components form a good system only when combined correctly. There is no one grand strategy for finding the system of your dreams. You can, however, follow some general strategies that will improve your odds. 1. FIND GOOD STORES A store with a wide selection of equipment, helpful staff, and a good listening room will help you immensely. The room is especially important; the best speakers in the world can sound disgusting when they sit on a long shelf surrounded by other models. (See Section 9.1 for more comments on room placement.) You might start by picking some likely candidates from the component list in Section 8, and then searching the Yellow Pages for stores that carry those candidates. You will find that a store that has one of the brands in Section 8 will usually have others as well. 2. AUDITION CAREFULLY IN-STORE If the salesperson in the store you are visiting strikes you as honest and helpful, ask him or her to recommend a system for your needs and your budget. Don't be afraid to audition that system, even if its components are unfamiliar. On the other hand, try to compare the components you hear to components that appear in Section 8. Try substituting one component for another in the system you are listening to and hear what happens. Bring your own CD's, or CD's you know, to the store. (A good salesman may ask you to come back later with CD's if you don't!) As a rule, if a setup strikes you as of special interest, spend a *minimum* of 30 minutes listening to your CD's, and come back on a different day to listen again. If the salesperson tries to chat with you while you are trying to listen, politely send him or her away. Tuners are particularly hard to audition in-store, as the reception there may be extremely poor. It is possible that one particular component will strike you as vastly improving every system it is included in, even though you hear no one totally successful system. If this is so, try to arrange an in-home trial of the component along with other components from other stores (see below). 3. LISTEN AT HOME Some stores will let you borrow equipment to listen to at home. (You may have to leave a credit card number or other such information.) Other stores will sell you equipment with the option to return it for a full refund. In either case, you have an opportunity to listen in the environment for which the equipment is intended. This is important because a room has a strong effect on the sound of a system in it. (See 9.1 again.) Mail ordering equipment with return options is a good way to immediately listen at home. However, you may be paying money (for UPS) for equipment you will not own. I recommend you mail-order only if you feel that the equipment has a fairly good chance of being what you want. (Hopefully, the equipment descriptions in Section 8 will help you determine that.) ****************** 8 The Equipment ****************** Although the examples of systems given in Section 6 are not recommended over other possible combinations, the specific components in Section 7 *are* specifically recommended. Remember that you must find out for yourself which pieces of equipment sound good together! In each category, equipment is given in ascending order of list price. The most expensive pieces of equipment will be rather costly even as part of a $2000 system. 8.1 Digital Sources All of the CD players and CD changers have remote controls. 8.1.1 CD Players PHILIPS CD921: $159 This player sounds fairly good and has many features. It is the best option for under $200, and should be included in most very inexpensive systems. It does not present as much musical detail as higher-priced players, but it has a sweet, listenable sound. It has a headphone output, variable outputs, and a digital output. (Also see 8.1.3-- Transports.) Questions have arisen lately regarding the reliability of Philips digital equipment. However, I stand by this recommendation, as any competition under $200 is bound to be more cheaply made. Keep in mind that every piece of equipment listed in this FAQ is better built than the components found in minisystems. Rumor has it that a newer model will soon replace the CD921. Details are unclear. NAD 510: $299 The NAD 502 CD player was well known both for its bright, detailed, muscular sound and for its reliability problems. Hopefully, the new 510 will share the 502's excellent sound quality and be better built as well. No digital output. ROTEL RCD-940BX: $379 This player has a bright yet warm sound, reminiscent of polished brass (as far as visual/aural parallels can be drawn :-) ). It resolves much detail and produces a strong sense of rhythm. However, some people might find the sound too bright. No digital out. MARANTZ CD-63 MARK 2: $399 This player recently replaced the original CD-63; the two models should be similar. The original CD-63 was an all-around good performer, with bright yet subtle sound. Build quality is excellent. Digital out included. The CD-63 Mark 2 also has variable outputs. PARASOUND C/DP-1000: $495 Parasound is a highly respected audiophile company; its only one-piece CD player is worth auditioning. Digital out included. MARANTZ CD-63SE: $499 This "Special Edition" of the CD-63 (see above) includes more expensive construction in several areas. It is said to be quite a bit better all around than the CD-63. Digital out included. CALIFORNIA AUDIO LABS DX-1: $595 Despite its list price, this player can be found for $500 or even less. It produces a truly high-quality sound, and is superbly built to boot. Digital out included. 8.1.2 CD Changers PHILIPS CDC926: $229 This 5-disc version of the CD921 is the best inexpensive CD changer available. Like the CD921, it has a digital out. (See 8.1.3-- Transports.) See the description of the CD921 (above in 8.1.1) for some reliability comments. Like the CD921, this model may soon be replaced. NAD 513: $399 This changer will outperform the Philips by far if no external DAC is used (see 8.1.3). It holds only 3 discs, but if that's all you need... :-) Digital out included. PARASOUND C/DP-1500: $650 This changer is the 5-disc version of the C/DP-1000 single-disc player. Digital out included. 8.1.3 Transports Many audiophile companies manufacture dedicated transports. They are generally too expensive to be included in systems under $2000. However, any CD player or changer with a digital out can be used as a transport. The Philips CD921 and CDC926 are recommended for this purpose; any more money would be better put toward a more expensive external DAC. 8.1.4 Digital-to-Analog Converters (DACs) The DACs here produced by Audio Alchemy (i.e. all but one) are often discounted. AUDIO ALCHEMY DAC*MAN: $159 This DAC has good-quality interconnects built in for direct connection to a preamp, integrated amp, or receiver. It is the lowest-priced DAC available. AUDIO ALCHEMY DAC-IN-THE-BOX (DITB): $259 This was Audio Alchemy's first very-low-priced DAC. (Audiophile DACs often run into the thousands of dollars!) Its performance can be improved by the addition of a larger power supply (the PS-1), sold by Audio Alchemy. SONIC FRONTIERS ASSEMBLAGE: $449 Ever want to get your feet wet in DIY (Do-It-Yourself) audio? The Assemblage comes in kit form, mostly complete but requiring an hour or two of assembly. (It is *much* easier than most amplifier and speaker kits.) Once assembled, the DAC has a more mellow, less dynamic sound than Audio Alchemy DAC's. The Assemblage can be bought already assembled (as the "TransDAC") for $599. AUDIO ALCHEMY DDE v1.1: $459 This is the next step up in the Audio Alchemy line. Like the Dac-In-The-Box, it can be upgraded with an external power supply from Audio Alchemy. It is currently being discounted all the way down to $300! If you buy the DDE1.1, spend the extra few dozen bucks on the PS-1 power supply. 8.2 Receivers All of the following receivers have remote controls and phono stages. ONKYO TX-910: $240 This receiver can often be found for $200 or even less. It provides 45 watts per channel. It is both better sounding and better built than equivalent offerings from many other Japanese mass-market companies. YAMAHA RX-385: $249 Similar to the Onkyo in specs (45 wpc), features, and price. YAMAHA RX-485: $299 With 65 watts per channel, the next step up in the Yamaha line. The RX-485 packs a notably more powerful punch than the RX-385. ONKYO TX-V940: $340 Similar to the TX-910, but with 100 watts per channel. This unit is often discounted to well below $300. NAD 701: $349 This receiver sounds a bit better than the others listed, but is less powerful (although it outperforms its 25 wpc rating). 8.3 Integrated Amplifiers NAD 310: $199 In Version 1.0 of this document, I suggested that this 20 watt integrated amp would be underpowered. Certainly, it will not have major punch, but it will be an excellent way to get refined sound for very little money if you listen at moderate levels. (In short: I changed my mind. :-) ) No phono stage. No remote control. NAD 312: $279 The NAD 302, the predecessor of this integrated amp, was well known as the least expensive source of "audiophile" amplification. Like the 302, the 312 will pack more of a punch than its 25 watts would suggest (and even more than the NAD 701 receiver). The 302 was many listeners' first step into audiophilia; hopefully, the 312 will lead in many more. No phono stage. No remote control. ROTEL RA-930AX II: $300 Don't expect big power from this 30-watt-per-channel unit, but do expect quality. Phono stage included. No remote control. HARMON/KARDON HK620: $349 This amp puts out 40 watts per channel. harmon/kardon amplifiers tend to be warm and sweet, as opposed to icy and detailed. Unlike many other brands in this FAQ, H/K is often available in mass-market electronics stores. Remote control included. Phono stage optional. ROTEL RA-935BX: $349 This unit has 40 watts per channel. It should be as good-sounding and reliable as everything else made by Rotel. No phono stage. No remote control. NAD 314: $399 The big brother of the 312, the 314's 35 watts-per-channel rating should be _very_ conservative (if it is anything like its predecessor, the 304). The 314 will be a major step up in sound quality from the 312. No phono stage. No remote control. ARCAM ALPHA 5+: $399 The sound of this unit is distinctive: crystal clear, yet likeable and listenable. However, it is somewhat deficient in gut-wrenching power. Nevertheless, an excellent buy. 40 wpc. Phono stage included. No remote control. REGA BRIO: $399 35 watts per channel. This unit sacrifices some icy detail for terrific warmth and listenability. It is particularly compact. Phono stage included. No remote control. ROTEL RA-970BX II: $500 The middle of the Rotel line, with 60 watts per channel. CREEK 4240: $595 40 watts per channel of soft, warm, cuddly, high quality sound. An add-in board with a phono stage can be purchased. No remote control. ARCAM ALPHA 6: $599 This unit is a good deal better than the Alpha 5. In particular, it has a lot more "oomph", although its 50 watts per channel are only 10 more than the Alpha 5's. Phono stage included. Remote control included. ROTEL RA-985BX: $750 At 100 watts per channel, this unit kicks more ass than most integrated amps. Its sound is reminiscent of that of a power amp/preamp combo. No phono stage. Remote control included. REGA ELEX II: $699 A bigger, better version of the Brio with 50 wpc. Phono stage included. No remote control. ARCAM DELTA 290: $899 This is a truly high-end piece of equipment, likely to handily outdo all the integrated amps listed above in clarity and most of them in power. 75 watts per channel. Phono stage and remote control included. JOLIDA SJ502A: $949 Remember vacuum tubes? They were used in all kinds of electronics circuits before transistors. Vacuum tubes are still used in audio equipment today for their open, warm, yet detailed sound. The Jolida SJ502A would be an excellent introduction to the world of tubes. It provides 60 watts per channel of rather solid power (unlike many tube amplifiers, which tend as a group to be underpowered). Its build quality is superb, as it should be for almost $1000. 8.4 Power Amplifiers Remember, these units are mostly boxes with on/off switches. They need to be mated with preamplifiers to be included in an audio system. (The exception is the AudioSource Amp One, which has volume controls, but even it needs a preamp in a system with multiple sources.) ROTEL RB-930AX: $249 This 30-watt-per-channel unit would make an excellent inexpensive introduction to the world of separate power amps. It doesn't have unlimited power, but it should suffice for many speakers. AUDIOSOURCE AMP ONE: $299 Produced by a company that got its start in affordable home theater, the Amp One is a quality product. It has 80 watts per channel. It has direct inputs for CD players, and volume knobs controlling the outputs. (These knobs become redundant if a preamp feeds into the Amp One.) The dual backlit level meters are cool. :-) ADCOM GFA5200: $350 The predecessor of this power amp, the Adcom GFA535II, was extremely popular. It had a rich, clear sound, although some people found it bright and irritating. Although the GFA5200 has 50 watts per channel (compared to the GFA535II's 60), it should still provide plenty of power. PARASOUND HCA-600: $365 This is the least expensive amplifier produced by Parasound, a highly respected audiophile company. Its performance should be excellent. It provides 50 watts per channel. ROTEL RB-970BX: $379 With 60 watts per channel, this amplifier is similar to the Adcom GFA535II. Some people rate the Adcom and Rotel equal; others give the Rotel a slight edge for its clean sound. Like the Adcom, the RB-970BX presents a thick, deep, yet clear panorama of sound. The potential shortcomings are also the same: brightness and graininess. Rotel's previous line of power amps included a less expensive model with 30 watts per channel. It is likely that their current line has such an amp, but I don't have information about it. B&K ST120: $398 Yet another high quality, 60-watt-per-channel power amp. B&K equipment has a lush, warm sound which some listeners find less fatiguing than Adcom and Rotel. On the other hand, Adcom and Rotel fans find B&K too dull. ADCOM GFA5300: $450 The next step up from the GFA5200, this amp has 80 watts per channel. ROTEL RB-980BX: $599 Similar to the RB-970BX, but with 120 watts per channel. This amp can ROCK THE HOUSE! You are unlikely to ever need more power, unless your room is enormous. 8.5 Preamplifiers AUDIOSOURCE PRE ONE: $249 The partner to the AudioSource Amp One, the Pre One should be of similarly high quality. Phono stage included. No remote control. ROTEL RC-970BX: $279 This unit would certainly make an excellent heart of a system when paired with the RB-970BX. No phono stage. No remot control. B&K CS-115: $348 This preamp should meet B&K's high standards of quality. It has a darker, warmer sound than most preamps. Phono stage included. No remote control. ADCOM GTP-350: $350 This preamp includes a decent-quality tuner. The preamp's weakness is its brightness and spikiness, but it produces an energetic yet even sound. No phono stage. No remote control. PARASOUND P/HP-850: $375 No doubt this unit is meant to mate with the HCA-600 power amp. It should be of very high quality. Phono stage included. No remote control. ROTEL RTC-940AX: $450 This unit, which includes a tuner, has probably been replaced by a newer model (with a model number ending in "BX"). AUDIO ALCHEMY DLC: $459 This unit is superbly quick and transparent. Like Audio Alchemy's DACs, it is physically far smaller than the average home component. Remote control included; in fact, much thought has been given to the design of the remote-control circuits within the DLC. (DLC stands for "Digital Line Controller".) No phono stage-- or headphone output. Of late, the DLC has been sold for as little as $300! You should definitely consider it if you need neither a phono stage nor a headphone output. ADCOM GTP-450: $480 Much like the GTP-350, but with a remote. Still no phono stage. 8.6 Tuners All of the equipment description sections in this FAQ are far from comprehensive, but this one is farthest! If you intend to use a tuner only rarely, the tuner built into a Walkman may suffice. ROTEL RT-935AX TUNER: $200? This tuner should be of good quality. AUDIOSOURCE TNR ONE: $230 In the same line as the AudioSource amplifier and pre-amplifier. Sometimes all three units are sold as a set. NAD 402: $249 A high-quality performer, often added to the 302 or 304 integrated amps. 8.7 Loudspeakers Here we go! The field of loudspeakers has far more entries than any other field of components. Remember, the recommendations here are just starting points. (Jeez! :-) ) All prices are per pair. ENERGY EXCEL: $150 This very small speaker (11" high) is said to produce a pretty big sound. PARADIGM ATOM: $170 Don't expect much bass from this 11" speaker. Do expect a high quality sound, with less coloration than the larger Paradigm Titan. (Coloration is the tendency of a speaker to impose its own timbre on the music it reproduces.) The Atoms can be found for a bit under their list price. DANA MODEL 1: $199 This slim, 15"-tall speaker is available only by mail order from Dana Audio (615-470-9797). It is of very high quality, with an exceptionally clean, detailed sound. Bass is thin, but controlled well. Some listeners might find the Dana too bright. PSB ALPHA: $199 One of the great buys in inexpensive audio, the small Alpha has many adherents. Although it has little deep bass, it manages to be reasonably satisfying even on large-scale music. It is designed to be placed near a back wall, rather than away from the wall as most speakers are. The bright treble is a possible source of complaints. ENERGY ENCORE: $200 This speaker is slightly larger than the Energy Excel. It competes directly with the Paradigm Titan. RA LABS MINI REFERENCE: $208 This small bookshelf speaker is availble only by mail order from RA Labs (800-651-7444). It has fair dynamics, mediocre imaging, and decent bass for its size. But its great appeal is its fantastically warm, listenable, cultured sound on acoustic music. The Mini Reference is respected by people who have much more than $208 to spend on speakers. Shipping is 10% extra. PARADIGM TITAN: $210 This small bookshelf speaker does everything rather well. Its bass is surprisingly strong for its size. It is often discounted to around $170. KEF CODA 7: $220 This little British speaker is a best-seller in the United Kingdom. It should have a laid-back, yet detailed sound (as KEF speakers tend to have). Expect bass to be so-so. MISSION 731: $249 Like KEF, Mission is a popular loudspeaker brand in the UK. The 731 has the typical British sound: calm, cool and detailed. Bass is decent. RA LABS REFERENCE 4A: $286 Like the RA Labs Mini Reference, the Reference 4A is warm, smooth, and beautiful on acoustic music, but sluggish on rock. Its bass is very good for a moderately sized bookshelf speaker. If you listen mostly to classical, the 4A is an excellent buy. Available only by mail order from RA Labs (800-651-7444). Shipping is 10% extra. PSB 300: $299 This smallish (14") speaker is a good all-around performer, with moderately deep bass. It is probably a bit more refined than the Paradigm Mini-Mk3, although less dynamic. PARADIGM MINI-Mk3: $330 This 13" bookshelf speaker has extraordinary dynamics and muscle for its size; it produces a sound like that of a larger speaker. It has an icy, raw edge that takes some of the fun out of classical, but adds life to rock music. Bass seems much deeper than it is because of the sheer power of the sound. Modest discounts can be found on this speaker. PSB 400: $399 This moderately sized bookshelf speaker is a larger version of the PSB 300. SIGNET SL260B/U: $450 This smallish bookshelf speaker has a cool, clean, clear, crisp sound. (What other 'c' words can I think of? :-) ) It has excellent imaging. Its main weakness is its bright treble. NHT 1.3A: $480 This fairly small bookshelf speaker has its problems: it has limited bass and is very hard to position in a room (due to its angled faceplates, which beam the sound directly at a "sweet spot" between the speakers). But it is worth mentioning because it has a neutral, amiable sound and because it is often sold for under $400. PSB 500: $499 This very large (23") bookshelf speaker would probably be best on the floor with short speaker stands. It is warm and listenable. B&W DM610i: $500 This largish bookshelf speaker has a likeable tone and a fair degree of dynamics. Some people fall in love with its sound; others find it stuffy. PARADIGM 5seMK3: $530 This floor-standing speaker has especially strong deep bass. Like the MINI-Mk3, it is often icy and remote on classical, but it comes alive on popular music, with excellent detail and dynamics. Often discounted to about $450. PHASE TECHNOLOGY 7T: $550 This floor-standing speaker is designed for home theater systems, but performs admirably in music-only applications. It has a dark but listenable tonal balance, with good bass and very good imaging. The 7T could be considered a poor man's Vandersteen 1B (see below). DEFINITIVE TECHNOLOGY BP6: $598 This floor-standing speaker is "bipolar", meaning that it radiates sound both in front and behind. As a result, it presents a wide panorama of sound for the listener in any position. Definitive Technology's speakers are often used as the main speakers in Home Theater systems. The BP6's bass goes fairly deep. This speaker is often discounted a bit. PARADIGM 7seMKIII: $630 This speaker is similar to the 5seMkIII, but has a thicker, richer sound. Still less satisfying on classical than on rock, however. Often seen for $550 or so. MAGNEPAN SMGc: $690 This speaker does not have a normal woofer and tweeter. It is a floor-standing panel, 4 feet high and 17 inches wide but only 2 inches deep! The SMGc lacks deep bass and can be hard to place in a room, but it produces an enormous sonic vista with wonderful tone quality-- when it is driven by a high-quality amplifier. SNELL J/III: $699 This large bookshelf speaker hs less bass than other $700 speakers, but it has a cool, powerful, detailed, yet relaxed sound. (See the Snell E/IV, the speaker at the bottom of this list, for mail-order comments.) VANDERSTEEN 1B: $695 This floor-standing speaker is one of the best-liked options in its price range. Its sound is warm, but not muddy; its has good bass, good imaging, and good (if not great) punch and dynamics. The 1B's sound good on all kinds of music. SPICA TC60: $795 The Spica has more bass than other bookshelf speakers, although less than most floorstanding models. But the Spica's most valuable feature is its enormous, detailed soundstage. DEFINITIVE TECHNOLOGY BP8: $798 See the BP6 above for a description of the bipolar sound of this speaker. The BP8 has many sonic advantages over the BP6, including deeper bass. Like the BP6, the BP8 is often discounted. B&W DM620i: $800 This floor-standing speaker is the next model up from the DM610i. The most notable improvement is the deeper bass. EPOS ES11: $895 This British bookshelf speaker is quite expensive for its modest size and limited bass, but its refined sound and unusually clear midrange are of truly high quality. CELESTION SL6si: $899 Another expensive but refined bookshlf speaker. NHT SUPERZERO + SW2P SUBWOOFER: $230 + $700 = $930 This is the exception to the "no sub/sat systems" rule. By themselves, the SuperZeroes have _no_ low bass. But mated with the SW2P subwoofer, which includes an 80 watt subwoofer amp, the SuperZeroes produce a wonderfully expansive and dynamic sound. Because the SW2P provides its own power, your system amplifier powers only the SuperZeroes; presumably, an amplifier of modest power (and price) would work admirably. One rec.audio.opinion regular claims to have improved the performance of this sub/sat system by building his own high-pass filter. (Don't ask me how to build things; I'm totally unmechanical. :-) ) MAGNEPAN MG.6/QR: $995 This speaker is a slightly larger and definitely better sibling of the SMGc. Its bass is deeper than that of the SMGc, but is still less than that of most floor-standing speakers. Like the SMGc, the MG.6/QR requires high-quality amplification to sound good. MIRAGE M-790: $1000 Like the Definitve Technology BP-8, the Mirage M-790 is bipolar. (In fact, Mirage developed the first bipolar speakers.) It projects a grand, rich soundstage. It is included here because it can be found for $700-$800 by mail order. SNELL E/IV: $1099 This floor-standing speaker has it all: neutral, dynamic sound, excellent imaging, and deep bass. The sound tends toward coolness rather than warmth. The E/IV is a truly high-quality piece of equipment. Beware of low mail-order prices on this speaker (and on other Snell models): the dealer may not be authorized, invalidating the Snell factory warranty. NHT 2.5: $1100 Like the Snell E/IV, the NHT 2.5 has no obvious weak points. It also has strong bass, a wide soundstage, and superb imaging (possibly better than the Snells'). Its treble will be strong like the Snells', but in a dynamic way rather than the Snells' refined way. *********************** 9 After the Purchase *********************** 9.1 System Setup Much has been written about the science (the art?) of setting up an audio system. The way in which it is set up has a pronounced effect on the sound; in fact, an inexpensive system set up properly may outperform a more costly system set up badly. The following rules will hopefully serve as a rough guide to setup. RULE 1: LET HEAT ESCAPE FROM THE AMPLIFIER This holds true whether the amplifier is a separate power amp, or is part of an integrated amp or receiver. If you stack another component on top of the power amp and block the vents, the power amp will be susceptible to overheating. This rule comes first because it concerns the protection of your equipment. RULE 2: PLACE THE SPEAKERS PROPERLY Most speakers perform the best when they are away from walls. (There are a few exceptions, such as the PSB Alpha.) Sophisticated software has been written to find the proper speaker locations for any given room. You don't need software to get a rough idea where your speakers should go: simply place them in different locations and listen. Speaker stands will not only help you locate bookshelf speakers properly, but can also improve their sound. (Some floorstanding speakers can also be used with short stands.) The best stands are made of metal; good metal stands can be had for under $100 from companies such as Target and Soundesign. RULE 3: SEPARATE COMPONENTS AND WIRING AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE The tiny vibrations and electromagnetic fields that a piece of electronics produces can affect other electronics in your system. Interconnects and speaker cable can pick up RF interference, especially if they cross power cords. RULE 4: INSULATE ELECTRONICS FROM VIBRATION This rule is related to Rule 3, but goes farther. A dedicated electronics rack is best, but other ways of insulating electronics are possible. I have had success with squash balls, cut in half and placed under components. 9.2 Further Purchases A TURNTABLE: Despite the advent of the CD, the vinyl record has not entirely fallen by the wayside. In fact, many audiophiles prefer records to CD's for the former's rich, warm sound. Good turntables are available from Sota, Sumiko, Rega, and (for a little more money) VPI. Plan on spending $400 or more. The tonearms and cartridges that come with these turntables can be upgraded later. If you buy a turntable, be sure that your receiver, integrated amp, or preamp has a phono stage. The phono stage must match the type of cartridge ("MM", moving magnet, or "MC", moving coil) in your turntable. If you lack the phono stage you need, you can buy it separately from Audio Alchemy or Creek (both cost about $200). A TAPE DECK: Magnetic cassette tape is not considered a high-fidelity medium. For this reason, cassette decks are not discussed in detail in the main body of this FAQ. An inexpensive single deck can be had for as little as $75; $300 will buy a single deck of very high quality. Double decks tend to have worse sound quality than comparable single decks. NAD and Rotel make fairly expensive decks, as does Nakamichi; cheaper decks can be had from Teac, Aiwa, and other Japanese companies. HEADPHONES: If your system has a headphone jack, headphones can be a way to hear high-quality sound for little money. Headphones are especially easy to audition and compare (remember that the electronics driving them will influence their sound quality). Two models to start with are the $69 Grado SR60 and the $300 Sennheiser 580. These two can serve as benchmarks against which to test other headphones. WIRES: There has been much debate over whether high-quality wires can improve the sound of audio systems. I think they can. The answer for you is to listen for yourself-- in *your*own*system*. The necessity in stereo buying of matching components carefully is doubly so with regard to wires. The proper brand and model of wire to use depends almost entirely on your components. Good wire companies include (but are not limited to) Audioquest, Kimber, Tara Labs, Tributaries, and Wireworld. Wiring your entire system with reasonably priced, but hgh quality, wire will cost $100-300. Replacing a part of your wire will most likely produce a partial effect. ****************************************************************************** That's all, folks! Send comments, flames, etc. to Marlon Feld at mbfeld@unix.amherst.edu. ******************************************************************************